
Unexpected Burgers
9/21/2024 | 28m 25sVideo has Closed Captions
Mushroom-Beef Blended Burgers, Turkey Patty Melts; Anchovies tasting
Test Cook Lan Lam makes host Julia Collin Davison Mushroom-Beef Blended Burgers. Tasting expert Jack Bishop guides Julia through a tasting of anchovies. Test Cook Antoinette Johnson and host Bridget Lancaster make an all-purpose Ground Turkey Mix for Turkey Patty Melts.
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Unexpected Burgers
9/21/2024 | 28m 25sVideo has Closed Captions
Test Cook Lan Lam makes host Julia Collin Davison Mushroom-Beef Blended Burgers. Tasting expert Jack Bishop guides Julia through a tasting of anchovies. Test Cook Antoinette Johnson and host Bridget Lancaster make an all-purpose Ground Turkey Mix for Turkey Patty Melts.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Today on "America's Test Kitchen," Lan makes Julia mushroom-beef blended burgers... Jack challenges Julia to a tasting of anchovies... and Antoinette makes Bridget turkey patty melts.
It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."
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♪♪ -I was walking through the test kitchen not that long ago, and I overheard one of the cooks brag about how they had just made the juiciest burger ever.
Needless to say, I was intrigued because that cook was Lan, and she doesn't lie.
-During recipe development, my team actually told me too juicy.
-Really?
-Yeah.
-I've never had a burger that was too juicy.
-Well, wait till you try this one.
-I'm so intrigued.
-We're making blended burgers.
They're a mixture of mushroom and beef, and I actually learned about them because I follow the Mushroom Council on social.
-[ Laughs ] The mushroom has a council?
-Yeah, they have a council.
They ran a contest where people were submitting their own burgers, blended with mushroom and whatever meat they chose.
But we're going to go with beef.
-Okay.
-I've got 12 ounces of white mushrooms here, and I've trimmed them.
And I like white mushrooms for this because we don't want the mushroom flavor to overpower the beef.
Step one is to break these down.
I'm going to use a food processor for this.
They're just going to go right in.
-I don't think I've ever had a blended burger.
-Until I started this recipe, I'd never had one either, but I love them.
They're so great.
And we'll just let this process for a little bit.
It takes usually about a minute to break them down.
And I want these to be super finely chopped.
-Okay.
-So that's looking pretty close.
I'm going to give this a quick scrape to get these larger pieces that are kind of clinging to the sides.
Now, you'll see some people make blended burgers by chopping cooked mushrooms, but I think you can get them smaller if you chop them raw.
It's looking nice and pasty.
It smells super mushroomy though.
-Oh, yeah.
It's starting to look like ground beef.
-A little bit.
Yes.
Now, mushrooms are 90% water.
-Mm-hmm.
-And that is too much water for a burger.
So what we're going to do is we're going to cook these in the microwave to get rid of some of that water.
I want to cover this to trap the steam.
That'll help them come to a boil faster.
And it usually takes about 3 minutes for them to come to a boil.
I'm going to stir halfway through cooking to make sure they're cooking evenly.
And the thing I've learned is for the last minute, do not walk away because they're going to start to bubble and boil.
It makes a mess.
-Okay.
-That's hot.
Nice and steamy.
-Pretty juicy looking.
-Pretty wet.
So, to make sure we're getting the right amount of water out, I'm actually going to put this through a strainer.
-Mm-hmm.
-I'm just going to press.
And what I'm looking for is about 1/2 cup of moisture.
I've found that if you don't get enough out, your burger is going to be too wet and mushy.
If you take out too much, it might eat a little dry.
So this is nice and controlled.
So let's see how I did.
-Perfect.
-The rest of this is going to go right into this bowl.
And I'm going to pop it in the fridge to let it chill.
It's so hot right now it would actually start to cook the meat, which is no good, so that's going to take about 20 minutes.
-Okay.
-Julia, it's been 20 minutes.
And these are nice and cooled.
-Not a looker.
-No, but we'll get there.
-Okay.
-We'll get there.
This is going to go right back into the food processor.
-That's why you didn't wash it.
-That is exactly why I didn't wash it.
Not laziness at all.
-[ Laughs ] -I've got a pound of 80% lean ground beef here.
And you want to use something that's pretty rich because that beefy flavor, it's in the fat.
So I'm going to throw on some gloves.
I'm going to take this and break it up.
Normally when we make burgers, we want to treat them as gently as possible.
-Mm-hmm.
-We want to season the patty and not the meat.
-Mm-hmm.
-And all of this is to make sure they stay nice and tender, right?
-Yeah.
-Thanks to these mushrooms, all those rules out the window.
-Really?
-Yep.
What we're looking for is to work this to develop myosin.
-Mm-hmm.
-And that protein is going to hold these burgers together.
The next thing I've got is 1 1/4 teaspoons of salt.
And this is kosher salt.
-Again, you would never do this with a regular burger because that makes the meat too tough.
But not in this case?
-Not in this case.
So we're going to pop this lid back on.
No gentle, delicate pulsing.
We're just going to process this for about 20 seconds until the mixture forms a ball.
Looks pretty good.
[ Laughs ] -Sure, if you say so.
I'm in your hands now.
-I promise, I promise.
Now we're going to divide this up.
This is going to make four burgers.
And I just want to get all of this mixture out of here.
So, I am looking to form 4 1/2-inch-wide patties.
I do want to make sure these are as flat as possible.
I found that when they weren't flat, those little concavities, steam would get trapped under there and then you wouldn't get any browning.
And these are going to release a lot of moisture.
So there's going to be a lot of steam produced.
So if you want to get great browning, take the time to really make sure that the patties are very flat on both sides.
Now, the really nice thing about this is you can make the patties, stick them in the fridge overnight, cook them the next day, or if you wrap them tightly, you can freeze them for a month.
-Really?
-Yeah.
It's looking pretty good.
Julia, I'm going to need your help with one more thing.
-Sure.
-Do you mind grabbing the pepper?
-You got it.
-Now, you can put as much or as little pepper on here as you'd like.
-Ooh, freedom.
-Right.
And I'll just flip them over as you get one side.
-Alright.
-See how soft these are?
-Yeah.
How's that?
-Perfect.
Let me get cleaned up and we'll start cooking.
-Great.
-Julia, I've got 1 1/2 teaspoons of oil in this skillet, and I'm heating it over medium-high heat.
You can see it's nice and shimmery.
-Mm-hmm.
-So let's get our patties in.
-Okay.
[ Sizzling ] -I have found that, in some skillets, it's really hard to get all four in at the same time.
-Mm-hmm.
-But these are going to shrink up slightly, so if it is hard to get all of them in, I just give the burgers maybe a minute, let them tighten up, scooch them closer together, and then I slip the last one in.
-Gotcha.
-You can see there's just a tiny bit more space coming.
-Mm-hmm.
-If you don't mind scooting these over a little bit.
-Sure.
-Get the last one in.
-Mm.
Alright.
-I think that's all I need.
The first couple times I did this, I would cook these to 125 degrees, because that's what we cook medium-rare burgers to.
-Mm-hmm.
-And that was when they were too juicy.
-Oh!
-It turns out that when you're working with vegetables and meat, medium rare is actually 135.
-Oh, interesting.
-So it's going to take maybe 6 to 10 minutes to cook through, depending on the temperature you're looking for.
Because I like a challenge, I'm actually going to take our burgers up to medium well to show you just how juicy they are.
-I actually like medium-well burgers as long as they're not dry to the bone.
-Yeah.
So, these are going to take another couple of minutes.
I'll add cheese for the last minute of cooking.
-Okay.
-These are smelling great.
-Mm-hmm.
-They're really close.
So it's time to add our cheese.
-Alright.
-Do you like American?
-Yep.
-Alright.
-I like American because it's melty.
-Yeah.
These are going to just take maybe a minute to melt.
-Mm-hmm.
-And since I'm serving these to you at medium well, we're going to take these all the way up to 155.
-Okay.
-That cheese is nice and melty.
Let's check these temperatures.
-They look so good.
-156.
Alright.
Let's get these out of here.
-Mm!
-Now, we're going to give these 5 minutes of resting time just to slow those juices a little bit.
Most important question you're going to get today -- What do you like on your burger?
-Everything.
-Really?
Everything?
-Yeah.
Lettuce, tomato.
-Let's try it.
-Mm!
Yes, please.
-Full ring?
Just a couple?
-No.
Just a few.
-Just like... -Yeah.
Perfect.
Are you pro-mayonnaise on a burger?
-Oh, yeah.
The more the merrier.
-[ Laughs ] Alright.
Some ketchup.
Mustard.
Oh, yeah.
Ho ho ho!
-Alright, here we go.
-Well, look how juicy that is.
-Mm-hmm.
-Going in.
-You're gonna love it.
-Mmm!
That's a great burger.
-Mm-hmm.
-You can taste the little mushrooms around the outside, but you'd really have to be using all your taste buds and really looking for it.
-And it's well done.
-And it's well done.
I might like this even better than just an all-beef burger.
It has more flavor somehow.
It's almost more beefy.
-I think you make a good point.
Those mushrooms bring a little bit of umami, enhances that beef flavor even more.
-Yeah.
Lan, this is terrific.
-Thank you.
-Thank you for showing me how to make this.
There you have it.
If you want to make the juiciest burger, hands down, start by microwaving white button mushrooms.
Use the food processor to combine the mushrooms and the ground beef, and cook the burgers until they register at least 135 degrees.
From "America's Test Kitchen," Lan's recipe for mushroom-beef blended burgers.
This is kind of groundbreaking.
You just blew my mind.
-Wait till you get different toppings on it.
So fun.
♪♪ -Here in the test kitchen, we often add small amounts of anchovy to recipes to bolster that hearty umami flavor.
So the question today for Jack is, does the style or brand really matter if you're only using such a small amount?
-It does.
Come on, you know it's going to matter.
So the good thing is we both love anchovies.
-Mm-hmm.
-So I brought four different things for you to taste.
We had 11 different samples... -Wow.
-...in different styles.
So you can start here with the most convenient... -Mm-hmm.
-...anchovy paste.
Sorry, just going to dig in there with a fork.
-It's all good.
-This is the one where a brand made the most difference.
Our winner here was from Scalia, and it had the best flavor.
Some of the others were too salty.
-No, it's very clean.
It's salty, but it has the anchovy flavor I'm looking for.
And it also has a very smooth texture that I think would meld really nicely into sauces.
-Yeah.
And it's a really easy formula.
If recipe calls for two anchovies, you either need 1 teaspoon, minced, or 1 teaspoon of paste.
-Well, that's easy.
-So that's simple.
And if a recipe just calls for one anchovy, the paste is totally fine.
Next up we have oil-packed.
We liked all of the brands that we tasted.
This was our favorite, but they were all delicious.
So, all anchovies begin as little fish swimming in the sea, the Mediterranean, or off the coast of South America.
They take off the head and remove the guts, salt them, put them in barrels and weight them.
-Mm-hmm.
-They're cured for 3 to 12 months.
-Oh, wow.
-That's when the magic happens.
All of that incredible nuance occurs during the curing period.
After the curing, they're rinsed off, and they can either be put in oil or they'll be put in fresh salt for packaging.
So obviously these, they've removed the bones as well.
-Yep.
-So they're ready to go.
-It's delicious.
It has a round flavor.
It's what I expect from anchovy.
It's not harsh.
It's not salty.
-Yeah.
And I think you get a little bit of like the oaky, fruity, funky.
You know, what you get from curing comes through more when you taste the whole fish.
-Yep.
-Now the salted variety.
They come in these big tins.
-Ah!
-So, after the curing, they put it back in a can with salt.
-Mm-hmm.
-Now, once you open this, you want to put this in a fresh container, keeping the salt because the salt is going to help oxidation from not happening.
So when you're ready, you can rinse them under running water.
Here I'm just using a little bowl.
Pat them dry, and then you can use a knife if you want.
But my grandmother my Italian grandmother, would always do it with her fingers.
And you kind of get in, grab the tail end.
And what you're trying to do is separate the two fillets as neatly as possible.
Once it gets going, it's pretty easy.
You just want to make sure that you're doing a good job getting the top off, and then you're going to leave behind the bone and the bottom fillet.
-Oh, very cool.
-And then at this point, you can really just go in and pull the bone out and then the tail will come off.
-Nicely done, Jack.
-And what we're left with is two beautiful anchovy fillets that are ready for cooking.
Now, this has got a little meatier texture because we just removed the bones before you tasted them.
-Mmm!
Oh, wow.
This is a whole new world of anchovy.
Holy cow!
I don't know why I haven't been buying these all the time.
They have so much flavor.
It actually tastes more like fresh fish.
-These are for anchovy lovers.
I would say they are fishier.
And so if you're somebody who's skeptical about anchovies, I would not do the salt cure.
-No, it has almost a fruity finish.
Man, these are incredible.
-And then last, these are Spanish boquerones for tapas.
During the curing process, the flesh is actually white, but then it turns that brown color.
And so these are really very lightly salted and then pickled.
These are really mild.
I find that somebody who thinks they don't like anchovies and they have these... -Mm-hmm.
-Mm-hmm.
They're doing what you do.
They're like, "Oh, just give me more of that."
-Just a little bread a little olive oil.
You're good to go.
-A glass of cava.
-Oh, now you're talking.
-I love anchovies.
I'm glad you love them too.
And they are surprisingly versatile in the kitchen.
-Mm-hmm.
Jack, thank you.
This was really interesting.
-You're welcome, Julia.
-If you'd like to learn more about anchovies or the power of umami, check out our website.
Here you go.
I know you've been eyeing them.
-Thank you.
-[ Laughs ] ♪♪ -Here at "America's Test Kitchen," we know that you can't just swap out ground beef with ground turkey and expect great results.
That super-lean ground turkey needs a little help.
Don't we all?
Well, Antoinette is here, and she's going to show us a fabulous mix that you can use for ground turkey.
And you can actually use it for many different things, right?
-Absolutely.
You really can make ground turkey juicy and flavorful.
-That sounds great.
-And I love this recipe because all the ingredients that we're going to use are going to help with infusing flavor and making the meat juicy.
-Okay.
-So we're going to start off with one shallot.
This is about 1/3 of a cup.
Then we're going to add in 1/4 of a cup of panko breadcrumbs.
-Mm.
-Now, both of these ingredients are going to help with tenderizing the meat and breaking up the texture.
Next we're going to add in 1/4 teaspoon of black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt.
Now, this is going to help with flavor.
But it's also going to help draw out all the moisture and the protein so that the burgers cook up juicy.
So now we have all of our ingredients, we're going to process this for about 20 seconds.
And we want to do this until the shallots are really fine.
-Okay.
-Open it back up and scraping down the sides before we add the rest of our ingredients.
-Okay.
-So next we're going to add in 1 pound of 93% lean ground turkey.
Now, it seems a little odd putting it into the food processor, but trust me, it's going to come out great.
-Right.
-Next we're going to add in 1/4 of a cup of milk, again, adding moisture to our mix.
And then we're going to add in 2 tablespoons of melted unsalted butter that we have cooled.
Again, this is just going to add in a little bit more extra fat.
And then last but not least we have 1 tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce.
This is going to add flavor, that umami good savoriness but also a little bit of acidity.
So we're going to work this in here, breaking up our meat a little bit.
And then we're going to pulse it for 8 to 12 pulses just until everything is evenly combined.
-Okay.
-And then we're going to transfer it to this bowl.
Thank you.
So once we have it in our bowl, I'm just going to smooth it out so we get a nice even layer so we can make sure we have uniform patties.
-Okay.
-And then I'm just going to make a little cut down the center nice and across.
So we have about four portions.
-Perfect.
-So next we're going to work into patting these out.
So I'm going to use some gloves because this can get a little bit messy.
-[ Laughs ] -Because this is a really sticky mixture, we're going to use parchment paper, and then we're going to take each of our little portions, plop it right in the middle, and then just use our fingers to spread it out.
We want to make sure that our patties are about 1/4 of an inch larger than our slice of bread, because as they cook, they will shrink.
-Gotcha.
So 1/4 of an inch all the way around?
-Correct.
Yes.
-Okay.
Gotcha.
-Let's see you do a little test.
I think we're good.
-That looks pretty good.
It's like you've done this before.
-Just a few times.
-[ Laughs ] -So, we'll pat out the rest.
And this really is the way to go, using the parchment sheets.
If you did try to do it like in your hand or in a plate, you'll notice you'll have a little bit of issue with transferring it to the pan.
So this makes it a lot easier.
-Love it.
-So now that all of our patties are patted out, we can now get started with cooking.
-Okay.
-I have a 12-inch nonstick pan here.
-Mm-hmm.
We're going to start off heat off.
-Cold?
-Cold pan, yes.
-Slow-cooked burgers?
-Oh, make them delicious.
Now, remember we're using this parchment so it's super easy.
We're going to cook them two at a time.
We just plop it and peel it back.
-Look at that.
So smart.
-So simple.
Same thing.
And peel back.
-That's satisfying.
-We're going to turn our heat on medium high.
And we're going to let these cook on this first side for about 3 minutes.
-Okay.
There's no oil in the pan.
-No oil.
No.
That butter we added to our meat mixture, it's going to come out and help cook our patties.
Bridget, it's been about 3 minutes.
-Mm!
-We can smell it.
-It's smelling great.
-Smelling good.
So let's go ahead and flip.
-Okay.
-Oh.
-Oh, ho, ho, ho!
Oh, that deep browning.
-So good.
Yes.
And then as they're cooking, you can see the butter coming out doing that work that we needed it to do.
-Oh, it's fantastic.
You usually don't get that amount of browning on a turkey burger.
-No.
-You got to put it basically over a volcano to get that kind of browning.
-[ Laughs ] -This is impressive.
-It's all in the mix.
-Yeah.
-So when we flip them over, we want to make sure that we press down so that we get that same browning on the other side.
And they'll cook on this side for about 2 minutes.
-Okay.
-We'll do one little last pat down to make sure we got that good color.
And then we can transfer them to a plate.
-Alright.
-Now, before we put our second batch in here, we do want to wipe out the pan.
So we'll just do a quick clean out and we'll get started with our second batch.
-Okay.
-Our second round of patties are done.
So we're going to go ahead and remove them from the pan.
So next we are going to caramelize our onions.
But we want to leave all of this good fat and crispy bits in here to add some to flavor.
So I have 1 pound of onions, sliced.
And this is going to be a quick caramelization.
We're going to add in 1/2 cup of water.
We're going to add in 1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt along with 1/4 teaspoon of black pepper.
We're going to add in 1 tablespoon of butter.
-That's going to help with the browning.
-Absolutely.
And then our little secret ingredient is going to be a pinch of baking soda.
-Huh.
-So this is going to help increase that browning and speed up this caramelization process.
So I'm going to give this a good little stir just to make sure everything is combined.
And then the last thing we're going to do is we're going to pop the lid on so that steam can help the onions cook even quicker.
-Okay, great.
-Bridget, it's been about 8 minutes.
Let's take a look at these onions.
-Okay.
-Ooh!
-Whoa!
-We cooked it 8 minutes, covered.
We're going to cook it for an additional 7 to 10, uncovered.
-Okay.
-So while that's doing its thing here, let's get started building our patty melt.
We have our four pieces of rye bread here.
It's really important you want to use really hearty bread so that it can hold up to the cheese and the meat and all the ingredients.
-Makes sense.
-On each slice, I'm going to put 1 1/2 teaspoons of Dijon mustard.
So, we have our four pieces of rye covered.
Next we're going to take our pepper Jack cheese.
So we're going to place 1 1/2 slices on each piece of bread, and we want to make sure that the bread is covered but we don't have any hang off.
-I'm digging your selection of cheese there.
-Oh, flavor everywhere.
-Yeah.
-The pepper Jack instead of the Swiss?
-Mm-hmm.
-Yeah.
-You need a little bit of heat, again, to break up some of the richness of this.
So we have our cheese and our bread.
Next we can put our patties on our cheese.
-Okay.
-Perfect fit.
-You're like a sandwich engineer.
-Awesome.
-Alright, so just waiting on the onions?
-Yep.
Just waiting on the onions.
Bridget, it's been about 10 minutes.
-They look gorgeous.
-They do, and they smell really good, too.
-They smell fantastic.
-So we just only have two more ingredients we need to add.
-Okay.
-We're going to add 2 teaspoons of balsamic vinegar.
-Mm!
-And then we're going to add 1 teaspoon of brown sugar, again, just to help with that caramelization process.
-Love this.
It's like 15 minutes total cooking time for the onions.
-Oh, yes.
Alrighty.
So let's mix this up.
-Mm!
-It's looking good.
So what I'm going to do is I'm going to evenly distribute these onions on each one of our burger patties.
Oh, it smells so good.
-Gorgeous.
Antoinette, these look amazing already.
-Thank you.
And they smell so good.
Next we're going to top them with the rest of our cheese.
A slice and a half.
-I didn't think I could love you anymore.
-Listen, nobody's complaining about extra cheese.
Awesome.
And then the last thing we have to do is just top them off.
-Okay.
-So I'm going to put our remaining slice of rye bread on the other side.
And then we have 1 teaspoon of unsalted butter here in our nonstick skillet.
And we have the heat on medium low.
And then we are going to place our unmelted patty melt.
-Patty unmelt.
-Our patty unmelts into our pan.
And we'll let these cook for 4 to 5 minutes so they can get really nice and brown on the bottom.
-Mmm.
-It's been about 4 to 5 minutes.
Let's check on the toastedness.
Ooh!
-Oh, come on.
That is amazing.
-Yes.
Delicious!
-Beautiful.
-And then we're going to add in another teaspoon of butter.
And we're going to cook for 2 to 3 minutes on this side.
Bridget, it's been about 2 minutes on this side.
So we can remove these.
Oh, they look so good.
And now we're just going to repeat this process with the last two sandwiches.
Just like that, we are all done.
-Just like that.
Excellent.
-Yes.
So let's give these a nice little cut.
-Mmm!
Super crispy.
-Oh, yes.
And then I'll plate.
Let's dig in.
-Oh, look at that.
Alright.
I see lots of juicy onions.
But it's really about the turkey.
It is.
-Mm.
That bite had every little bit in it.
-Mm-hmm.
-Those gorgeous, sweet, caramelized onions -- super tender.
But the turkey itself.
-Juicy.
-Juicy and tender.
What I love is that you started off with a turkey mix.
So you can use that for meatloaf.
Meatballs?
-Yes.
Anything that you're using ground turkey for so that you can include some juiciness and some more flavor.
-Great.
So if you want more instructions on the mix and what to use that for -- meatballs, meatloaf -- go check out our website.
Well, if you want to make this fantastical sandwich, it starts by processing ground turkey with breadcrumbs, milk, and butter.
Use baking soda to speed up onion caramelization and carefully assemble the sandwiches before toasting.
So, from "America's Test Kitchen," an exceptional turkey patty melt.
You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with product reviews and select episodes.
And those are all on our website, americastestkitchen.com/tv.
Mm!
Alright.
Next we're going to have to fry some chips.
-Oh, yes.
And like you said, some pickles.
-Pickles.
And root beer.
-Mm-hmm.
-Visit our website to sign up for our free e-mail newsletter with more revolutionary recipes and the stories behind 25 years of test-kitchen discoveries -- americastestkitchen.com/tv25.
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